Hey team! Just a quick check-in over here. I have been massively busy, but I want to stop by and say hi! So hello! Can we believe it’s already October? Jacket weather is here, and I’m pretty excited about it. I think a pot of chili is in order v. v. soon. Perhaps this weekend… Anyone watching Halloween movies yet?

In other news, the Forbes 30 Under 30 summit was here in Boston this week, and my good friend asked me to make dessert for a dinner event. I immediately jumped at the opportunity and baked like crazy. The theme was a table full of cakes that were unique and had spices reminiscent of spice markets far away. The menu was:

Fresh Mint and Lemon Cake with Pistachio

Coffee and Cardamom Cake

Flourless Tahini Chocolate Brownie

Spiced Apple Butter Cake Truffle

I wanted to share the wealth with all of you, so I’ve got the brownie recipe here in this space. The idea was to create a deep, rich brownie swirled with nutty tahini to cut through that decadence. I used black cocoa powder and unsweetened chocolate to add bitterness and create a fuller cocoa flavor profile which was a great decision in my mind.

If you’re unfamiliar with black cocoa powder, let’s jump back there! You know how much I love chocolate science.

Cocoa powder is made from milling the cake that is created after grinding the nib and pressing the liquor (brush up on chocolate science here and here!). Once you have the powder, you can make a few decisions. The most important one is to Dutch or not-to-Dutch.

The Dutching process (which you may recognize from your “Dutch” cocoa powder label) is actually an alkalization process. It’s called Dutching because it was developed in the Netherlands.

The process itself involves adding an alkaline (basic or high pH) solution to cocoa. Often it is added prior to roasting of the nib that is pre-destined to become powder, though it can be added to the powder itself. This alkalization of the cocoa does a few things. Originally, it was intended to help the cocoa solubilize in milk or water-based drinks and remain suspended in solution. Think the original chocolate milk powder. It has a different purpose for us. It actually changes the flavor and color. Cocoa contains a lot of natural acids which can be harsh. If you’ve ever had a really high cocoa content, single-origin chocolate bar, you know what I’m talking about! The alkalization neutralizes these and mellows the flavor.

Now for that special black color. Dutching can influence the color in a wide variety of ways, but it is typically used to darken the cocoa. The alkali solution actually causes the cocoa to react and create more browning flavors and colors during the roasting process. (Remember, the Maillard reaction can be optimized at higher pH levels) Black cocoa powder is heavily Dutched giving it a really dark color and deep, yet mellow flavor. That being said, you can use Dutching to manipulate the cocoa production and create a variety of colors such as red or lighter browns.

Enjoy the brownie now that our kitchens are cool enough to fire that oven up! Let me know what you guys have been up to and if you bake a pan of these brownies for yourself 😊

Flourless Tahini Chocolate Brownie

Makes 1, 8×8” pan

Adapted from David Lebovitz

3 tablespoons (29 g) cornstarch

2 tablespoons (14 g) black cocoa powder

6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 tablespoons tahini, divided

2 large eggs

⅓ cup (73 g) granulated sugar

¼ cup packed (53 g) light brown sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon honey

Large flaky salt such as Maldon or Fleur de Sal (Optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350° Line an 8×8” baking dish with 2 overlapping pieces of parchment paper, leaving an overhang of a couple inches on two sides
2. Sift the cornstarch and cocoa powder together in a small bowl. Set aside.
3. Heat chocolate, oil, and 1 tablespoon tahini in a small saucepan over low, stirring, until melted and smooth.
4. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat eggs, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in a large bowl until light, smooth, and doubled in volume. This should take approximately 3-4 minutes. Beat in salt and vanilla to combine.
5. Add the chocolate mixer into the egg mixture, scraping down the sides as needed, until incorporated. Beat in cornstarch mixture, then increase speed to medium-high and beat until mixture is thick and holds its shape, about 1 minute.
6. Stir honey with remaining 3 tablespoons of tahini in a small bowl. Scrape the chocolate batter into prepared baking pan and smooth the top. Dollop tahini mixture over and swirl into top of batter with a skewer or toothpick. Sprinkle a big pinch of large grain flaky salt over the top (optional).
7. Bake brownies until sides are puffed and a tester inserted into the brownie center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, about 22-24 minutes.
8. When cooled, lift the brownies out using the parchment overhang. When ready to serve, cut into squares or break up into irregular bark shapes.